Poly sits bunkered in the sloping corner of the Paramount building, Sydney’s latest slice of night-life opened by Mat Lindsay and his team. A slab concrete bar traces two sides of the room, with fine wooden furniture clustered throughout. The space bustles with soft light and carefree locals – like a haven of fine-dining, taking arms against the Winter that drums on the glass.
The kitchen – lead by Head Chef Isabelle Caulfield – recedes into the back, with open-plan visibility where the team flows with exacting precision in front of a smouldering wood fire. As with its sibling restaurant, Ester, Poly exhibits modern Australian cuisine. From slow cooked lamb ribs with cumin and chilli to Sydney rock oysters with pickled mussels and octopus, served up with sunrise lime. The menu is always evolving, as the chefs flex their creative muscles, sending out dish after dish to seated customers and the hotel rooms upstairs.
Yet somehow these plates play second fiddle to Poly’s cellar. The walls are blanketed with their extensive offering, rows of wines that have been curated by sommelier Julien Dromgool, there is a glass here set to satisfy every palate. The wines are farmed organically with minimal intervention, and the menu breaks them down by body – from light and fresh to rich and textural, with a cluster of skin-contact wines ranging from subtle to robust. Throw in a slew of classic cocktails, some in-house inventions, and all the staple spirits to pair with your dessert, or round off your night.
As part of the Paramount neighbourhood, Poly is now offering room service to guests of Paramount House Hotel. If you’re with us for the night, just stay exactly where you are and enjoy the kitchen’s handiwork delivered to the comfort of your room.
Open until late every night of the week, and with the bulk of their seats kept available for walk-ins, Poly has the stage set for you, no matter which script your night is following. This latest addition to the Surry Hills neighbourhood is up and running, keeping diners and hotel guests satisfied.